In New York, supermarkets can sell beer—but not wine or spirits. Those are reserved for licensed liquor stores. Which is why, at first, I thought some might have a special license. But it turned out the bottles I’d spotted just looked like wine—same grape names, same wine regions—until closer inspection revealed one big difference: they’re liberated. From alcohol.

As if the wine has cast off its old life and is now embracing something lighter, freer… and completely legal to sell next to the pasta sauce.

It caught my eye, so I have to admit—it’s a high-end, clever bit of marketing. Instead of pointing out what’s missing, they make it sound like a conscious lifestyle choice.

I tried one of those “wines” in the past and whilst it might be a great alternative for some, to me, it tastes more like spoiled grape juice…