On one of my final nights in Rome, we found ourselves in Trastevere again—a charming neighborhood that feels just a little more local. It’s greener, slightly less overrun with tourists, and definitely more laid back. Sitting on those famously uneven cobbled streets, flanked by graffiti-covered walls, with chilled drinks and a bowl of chips—perfect.

Aperitivo is one of those Italian customs that makes you wonder why the rest of the world hasn’t quite caught on. Somewhere between 6 and 8 p.m., bars fill up with people easing out of the workday, catching up, or just watching the street go by. The drink is usually something light and bitter—Aperol Spritz, Campari and soda, maybe a glass of chilled wine or prosecco—and it often comes with a few simple snacks.

The tradition began in northern Italy, especially in cities like Milan and Turin, as a way to “open the appetite” before dinner. Rome gives it its own flair—more lived-in, a little scruffy, all the more charming for it.

This little table in Trastevere was the perfect spot to slow down, take it in, and think back on the last few days spent wandering this ancient, unforgettable city.